The Great Brazilian Road Trip finds the spot where the Portuguese first made contact with Brazil. Car trouble earns us an extra day on the beach.
Porto Seguro
As history lovers, Porto Seguro was a "must see" on our travels through Northeastern Brazil.
It was here, on April 26th, 1500, that Portuguese sailors first set foot on what would eventually become "Brazil." Since these sailors were actually on their way to India, they only stayed long enough to have mass and get supplies.
Three years later, another expedition returned to establish one of the country's first European settlements.
Growing up, Vitor remembers family vacations here. However, history only features as a minor footnote in these memories. Mostly, he remembers going to the beach and his mom gleefully dancing to "axé" (pronounced: ah-shay"): up-tempo Afro-Caribbean music.
Given this, we can confirm Lonely Planet's assessment: apart from it's small historic center, Porto Seguro is better known for the hordes of Brazilian and Argentinian tourists who come for beach action and nightlife. Most [international] travelers only stay long enough to catch the ferry to the mellow village of nearby Arraial d'Ajuda.
Arraial d'Ajuda
Given V's earlier experience in Porto Seguro, we booked a 3-night stay in a quiet pousada (B&B) on a peaceful beach in Arraial d'Ajuda.
After a long day of driving, we arrived in the dark. The road into town is rough and, unfortunately, we had an unpleasant encounter with a very large pothole.
The next morning, our tire was completely flat. A local mechanic informed us the pothole had cracked our tire rim, requiring an extra day of repairs. There are certainly worse places to spend an extra night.
Between the ferry and the main town of Arraial d'Ajuda, the road is a string of pousadas along the beach. Pick the pousada that best matches your vibe as this is where you'll likely spend most of your time.
The "centro" (center) of Arraial d'Ajuda (the red square on the map) is closed to vehicle traffic at night creating a safe pedestrian space for folks to explore the numerous shops and restaurants in the area.
Parking is hard to find, so prepare to walk.
Things to Do
1. Visit Historic Porto Seguro - The site of the area's first European settlement is small but well-maintained. Like many historic settlements, it sits on top of a hill and has a nice view of the surrounding beaches. The area includes the original stone marker (right) as well as a few houses, churches, and the Instagram-friendly "Porto Seguro" sign.
Our tour took less than 45 minutes. While our guide was knowledgeable, there wasn't much to see.
2. Visit Coroa Vermelha - This is the spot where the Portuguese first made contact with Brazil. The site is hidden deep within a sprawling souvenir village and is marked with a giant cross and plaque.
Truthfully, the area itself was a bit disappointing but, since we had already come all that way, we felt it was important to complete the pilgrimage.
The drive from Porto Seguro to Coroa Vermelha hugs the coast and is essentially a line of "beach resorts" packed with day trippers. If you're feeling brave, pick one and party with the locals along the way.
On our way back from Coroa Vermelha, we visited the resort that V remembered from his childhood, Axé Moi. While things hadn't changed that much, we were ready to move on after sharing a coke and basket of fries.
3. Walk the Beach - As I mentioned above, the area between Porto Seguro and Arraial d'Ajuda is a string of beaches. Over the course of several days, we covered everything, from the point near the ferry all the way south to Praia do Macuge. While the water wasn't as clear as other places we've visited, the peace and quiet was much appreciated.
Everything, with the exception of Praia do Macuge, was practically empty of other tourists.
4. Day Trip to Trancoso – This beach area is prized for its relative isolation. We decided against a day trip here since the next stop on the Great Brazilian Road Trip was a different isolated beach town. However, many other folks based in Arraial d’Ajuda make it a point a visit to Trancoso.
Overall
Despite the immense historic importance of the area, Porto Seguro can be seen in a single morning or afternoon, including a drive to Coroa Vermelha. The only reason to spend more time here is if you have car trouble... or if you're in need of a hospital. Unfortunately, we have experience with both (more on this in a later post).
Arraial d'Ajuda has fantastic tourist infrastructure and an overwhelming number of great restaurants. The beach is peaceful, making it a great place to relax for couples and families alike. We recommend 3 nights here, which will give you enough time to enjoy both Porto Seguro and the surrounding area.
