The Great Brazilian Road Trip goes car-free for a few days.
Morro de Sao Paulo
After the hustle and bustle of Salvador, it was time to unwind. Morro de Sao Paulo is a “car-free, carefree island” so we parked REX, caught a water taxi, and left our worries behind.
V last visited Morro de Sao Paulo with a group of friends in his young professional days. Back then, everyone was on a budget but still managed to have a good time. The village was small, restaurants were basic but everything was in walking distance.
Today, 10 years later, Morro de Sao Paulo (MSP) is still small(ish) but feels a little like it’s about to burst at the seams.
The village is packed full of bars, restaurants, and stores almost all of which were much nicer than V remembered.
The MSP peninsula is dotted with pousadas and hotels for every budget. Most businesses describe their location in reference to the nearest beach.
All beaches are creatively named by number: Praia 1, 2, 3, 4.
Praia 1 is closest to the lighthouse and is busy during the day but quiet at night.
Praia 2 is packed both day and night and is home to the hippest bars and restaurants.
Praia 3 has more of a family vibe and is busiest during the day.
Praia 4 is a 20 minute walk from the village which gives it a peaceful, remote feeling. Ideal for honeymooners.
We chose a pousada on Praia 1 because it seemed to offer relative peace and quiet close to the action.
Things to Do
1. Relax – whatever this looks like for you, MSP has something to fill that need. For us, this meant people watching from the comfort of our pousada pool. In fact, we recommend budgeting a little extra for a hotel with a few extra creature comforts. This will allow you to escape the beach when it becomes too crowded.
2. Visit the Lighthouse – “Morro” translates to “hill” and MSP has several. If you’re in need of some exercise, you can climb one of the hills up to the lighthouse. Just behind the lighthouse are the ruins of an old fort from which you get a spectacular view of the beach below. For the adrenaline junkies among us, there’s also a zip line that runs from the fort to Praia 1.
3. Catch the Sunset – Although crowded, the view from Toca do Morcego was beautiful. Plan to arrive by 4:30pm to make sure you get a good seat. Order a cocktail (or two) and enjoy the DJ tunes. If beach clubs aren’t your thing, or if you’re trying to avoid crowds, the lighthouse observation deck (further up the hill) might be a good alternative.
4. Walk the Beach – Regardless of where you stay, walk from Praia 1 to Praia 4 at least once. I personally loved Praia 4, especially when compared to Praia 2 and 3.
5. Day Trip – We originally planned to take a day trip but then discovered that all of the group tours required an 8:30am departure. Still, if we had stayed an extra day, we would have considered disrupting our “sleep late” routine to check out some of the other beautiful beaches and waterfalls in the area.
6. Eat Well – MSP has plenty of options! In fact, we had a hard time choosing since everything looked so good. O Casarao (the big yellow house near the church) was our favorite.
Getting There
MSP is special, in part, because it’s a journey to get there.
Ferry vs. Driving
Option 1: Ferry from Salvador to Valencia + Boat Taxi from Valencia to MSP
Option 2: Drive (from Salvador or elsewhere) to Valencia + Boat Taxi from Valencia to MSP.
Originally, we had hoped to catch the ferry from Salvador. Unfortunately, we didn’t buy tickets in advance. When we arrived, the line to get onto the ferry was MASSIVE and unmoving, and we were worried we wouldn’t make it.
I panicked and convinced V we would have better luck driving. We typed “Valencia” into Waze and off we went. Roughly half way into our journey, we realized this may have been a mistake.
The roads were rough - so rough that gaping potholes covered the entire road in some places. Most of the route hugs the coast, curving sharply around every inlet and bay, on a long meandering journey to the final destination.
The combination of giant potholes and winding roads made it impossible to drive faster than 60kms.
Waze had originally said the journey would take 4 hours but, in the end, it took closer to 5.
Our advice: take the ferry from Salvador, but buy tickets in advance. This allows you to skip the crazy-long line as well as the insane back country roads.
Valencia + Parking Nightmares
When we arrived in Valencia, it was easy to find the ferry terminal. Near the ferry terminal, there are plenty of parking options. While some lots fill up quickly, we were able to find space in a lot just across the road from the boat dock.
On our search for a parking space, we were waved down by a man on a motorcycle claiming that all lots were full and that we needed to follow him to the only available space. He was incredibly insistent and, for a brief moment we considered it especially after the first lot we tried turned out to be full. However, it’s a good thing we didn’t as his prices were twice as high as the others. Be careful not to fall for scams like this.
Our parking attendant was very sweet and helped us get our suitcases from the parking lot to ferry terminal.
Boat Taxi
There are two boat taxi options from Valencia to MSP. Option 1: big and slow, Option 2: small and fast. Both are cash only. Since we were running out of daylight, we chose to spend a little extra to get there a little faster.
Our boat taxi going to MSP was almost completely empty which was fantastic. However, coming back from MSP, our boat taxi was packed full of people and luggage. Although most folks were wearing masks, the close quarters made me uncomfortable.
I'm not sure there's a way to get around this, but if you're feeling nervous about travel during a global pandemic, this may be a deal breaker.
Arriving in MSP
The boat taxi pulls up to a small, rusted staircase attached to a big wooden dock. If there are waves, it could take several attempts for the boat to “attach” to the staircase.
Once docked, a crowd of porters throw their hands out to help pull the luggage and passengers from the boat onto the dock. This all happens so quickly, you couldn’t stop it even if you wanted to. Once on the dock, you’ll find your luggage conveniently placed in a porter’s wheelbarrow.
Remember: MSP is car-free which means your bags must find another way of getting from the dock to your hotel.
If you plan to carry your own bags, you must remove them from the wheelbarrow before you leave the dock. Otherwise, prepare to pay the porter once your bags are delivered to your hotel. Payment is cash only.
Finally, before you can depart for your hotel, you must pay an island “entry fee.” Surprise: cash only.
Overall:
Morro de Sao Paulo (MSP) is no longer a secret, but don’t worry: it still feels special.
Getting there is half the fun and helps you feel like you really, truly got away from it all.
Unless you’re in a party mood, look for lodging away from Beaches 2 + 3. If you have budget to spare, find something with a nice pool so you can escape the beach when it gets crowded.
Bring plenty of cash for the boat taxi, entrance fee, and porters. There isn't an ATM on the island, but most hotels and restaurants accept cards.
Pack light (if you can). You don't need much to enjoy your time here.